Kyoto– category –
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Arashiyama Bamboo Grove: A Local’s Guide to Seeing It Empty
Why do people photograph bamboo? I ask myself this every time I come to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. I grew up in Shizuoka, where my parents' land holds more bamboo than anyone knows what to do with. For me, photographing bamboo is rough... -
Eikando Temple, Kyoto: Why I Can’t Quite Recommend the Temple of Maples
I have been to Eikando four times. I don't plan on a fifth. The first visit was in the green season. Rain had just lifted, the stone approach was still dark with water, and overhead the young maple leaves filtered the light until the who... -
Otagi Nenbutsuji: 1,200 Moss-Covered Statues and the Secret Carved on Their Backs
The grand vermilion torii of Mount Atago stands about five minutes on foot below the temple gate, at the top of the Saga Toriimoto preserved street. On this particular morning, for the first time in all my visits, there was not a single ... -
Kyoto’s Hidden Trick-Art Sanctuary in Yamashina
Bishamonten first entered my life as a battle flag. The warlord Uesugi Kenshin flew that single character—毘, for Bishamonten, guardian god of warriors—above his armies. Kenshin was never the most popular samurai to admire. But say you l... -
Ryoanji: Kyoto’s Famous Rock Garden and the Fifteen Stones You Can’t See
I wasn't trying to eavesdrop. The guide's voice simply carried. "Queen Elizabeth once praised the rock garden at Ryoanji," he was telling a cluster of students. "Before that, nobody paid this temple any attention. Then, overnight, it was... -
Ginkakuji Silver Pavilion Kyoto: A Rainy Morning at the Temple That Was Never Silver
Every time I visit Ginkakuji, the same question comes back to me: what is wabi-sabi, actually? I'm Japanese, and I don't have a clean answer. It was an aesthetic once, a way of seeing, but it isn't something I feel in daily life. If a fo... -
Nanzenji Hojo: Matcha, Tigers, and a Quiet Kyoto Garden
A bowl of freshly whisked matcha served with a wagashi sweet on a red lacquer tray inside the Hojo tea room at Nanzenji temple in Kyoto. Seven hundred yen for a bowl of matcha. About five dollars — the same amount I spend on lunch every ... -
Nison-in Temple: The Twin Buddha Sanctuary of Arashiyama
Nisonin Temple sits at the foot of Mount Ogura, and most visitors walk right past it. They come to Arashiyama for the Bamboo Grove, for Togetsukyo Bridge, for the crush of selfie sticks and rickshaws. But keep walking north through the q... -
Daikakuji Temple: A Local’s Guide to Kyoto’s Imperial Saga
Most visitors to Arashiyama never make it this far north. They turn left at the bamboo grove, loop past Tenryuji, cross the Togetsukyo Bridge, and call it a day. Their loss. Daikakuji sits twenty minutes on foot from the crowds — far eno... -
Gioji Temple Kyoto: The Moss Garden Guide | Arashiyama
Gioji Temple is a small nunnery tucked into the far reaches of Sagano, in the northwest of Arashiyama. It is best known for two things: its connection to the Tale of the Heike, and a garden carpeted almost entirely in moss. Few places in...
